Destroyed by Progress?
November 27, 2009
Jenn and I visited the village of Lavena, a microcosm of a world located on the island of Taveuni, Fiji. The place is a paradise… beautiful white and black sand beaches, crystal clear water, lush tropical flora, and rivers flowing right into the sea. We checked into a little lodge a the edge of the village, a place which only has 4 rooms, and might sleep 10 people if every bed was full. In fact, this is the only place it is possible to stay in this remote part of the world. The locals here are incredibly friendly, and have smiles that make you feel very welcome. Once we got settled in, we quickly found there was no restaurant, no general store, practically nothing available to buy. The lodge had a few drinks for sale, and across the lawn there was a small ‘cantina’ where we could choose from a minimal of staples. We suddenly realized we might actually starve here, as we had brought nothing with us. When we asked about dinner, our host mentioned we could have dinner made for us by one of the local village families. Whew! We were saved… we might eat after all! We then went for a walk along the beach to find a place to swim.
As we walked along, we noticed a large number of shells along the beach… hundreds of them, just washed up. We’d never been anywhere where this many intact and beautiful shells just piled up along the sand. We started to pick up a few, and before we realized, had two pocketfuls. We couldn’t believe our luck! We decided we’d try to wash them and bring them back home as a souvenir. When we arrived back at the lodge, (which is ill-named, for it’s nothing you’d imagine when you picture a lodge in your mind), we were greeted with a cold shower to wash the saltwater off us. We then awaited our dinner, which was delivered to us as we sat on a picnic table overlooking the beach. The dinner was wonderful… fresh fish coated and fried, a mixture of different vegetables (casava, taro, and breadfruit), bananas, all cooked up and piled on top of ramen noodles stir fried with a leafy green. It was a ton of food, and at only F$10, the least expensive meal we’d had yet. Later we discovered that this, our favorite meal in Lavena, was Parrot Fish! Oh wow?!? We’d seen these fish in the reefs of the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia and beyond but we didn’t know they were edible, or so tasty!
The next day we woke up and had breakfast, and then talked with the three other guests staying at the lodge. We decided to take a guided kayak tour of the Lavena coastline. The kayaking was fun, although we were both really tired after doing an hour of open sea paddling. We ended the kayak portion of the trip paddling up into two rivers that flow into the sea, and stopped when we came to giant waterfalls. At the second one, we were able to swim through a channel deeper into the island, where a second set of falls was visible. It was a mini piece of paradise for sure. The walk back was filled with lots of information about the village, farming, and the fauna/flora. We found out that the small village was raising funds to build a school. To help this, they invited us to a fundraising celebration, where they would be drinking kava, singing, and dancing. It was like a typical house party, except everyone was pretty much family. A huge bowl of kava was placed on the porch, and the musicians played local music while the villagers drank the night away. However, to drink the kava for this particular festival, you had to be “bought”. Basically another tribe member would ‘donate’ a small amount of money, at which point they could choose someone to drink. A typical donation was 20 to 50 cents. After making the donation, you’d fill up a coconut glass and take it to the target person. It boiled down to buying a drink for your friends with the money going to charity. Except it quickly turned into a “let’s see how much kava we can make the tourists drink” event. I think I was offered 10 bowls of kava in the first 15 minutes we were there. Of course, I did my best to return the favor to each of the people who made me drink.
The kava itself does not taste good. It’s the root of a pepper tree, and after a drink or two, it turns your mouth numb. However, unlike alcohol, it does not make your mind cloudy… in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Your body gets tired, but your mind stays very clear. We socialized just long enough to fill ourselves with kava, and took off for bed.
The next day we were discussing the need for the new school at the village. The village didn’t have an ‘old school’… instead the children would walk 6km back up the road to the next town, attend school, and then walk home. Why did this village which had existed primitively for hundreds of years suddenly have so many kids that they need a school? The population of the village was growing… and at a significant rate. Our guide told us that the entire village previously existed on subsistence farming and fishing. The ‘cantina’ we visited sells canned goods, oil, flour, and other staples that were difficult or impossible to get just a generation ago. Also, there is now a bus that runs regularly into the larger towns, providing a way for even more goods (and tourists) to find their way to the village. This has directly affected village life. Besides providing income from tourist related activities, it has resulted in a boom in population because it is now possible to feed more mouths without having to survive only on what you could catch or grow.
As we watched the villagers forage for seafood, I found it hard to believe they were able to find so many shells in such a small area. It turns out they are having to hunt further and further away to find food for their families. This can only mean the area is experiencing over fishing. In time, I believe the entire marine ecosystem here is going to be devastated. It looks like there is some knowledge of this however… as several of the neighboring villages have banded together and created a marine preserve. They have agreed not to hunt or forage a 1km stretch of costal water the lies between them. Will this be enough?
I am glad we got to experience this little slice of the world. I fear that in no time at all however, this place will no longer be the Fiji that everyone dreams about. But, what is a village to do? Continue on with their old ways, and shun progress and tourists? Or, adopt technology, accept that things are going to change, and try to preserve their way of life as best as possible?
Lucas, looking pensive as he stares into the sunset outside Pacific Harbor on Fiji’s main island.
Our adorable bungalow in Matei, Taveuni where we stayed for three nights before venturing to the Taveuni Coastal Walk. We absolutely loved this place for self evident reasons.
This is the view that we went to bed to each night in Matei. And below, is some of the flora was saw along the Lavena Coastal Walk.
The kayak ride to the Lavena waterfalls was really pretty grueling, but the views were wonderful! It is 25km from Lavena to the next town (we didn’t paddle the whole way of course) but our guide told us that there are more than 200 rivers that flow into the ocean along those 25 km. Tons of rain! Hence, why Taveuni is called the Garden Island.
Dunedin & Seacliff, New Zealand
November 12, 2009
Our last stop before heading to Christchurch were the cities of Dunedin and Seacliff. Dunedin is a cool place, and it’s centered around a university there. One of the locals told us that the university is really the only reason for the town. But, we found a few other things to entertain us! Cadbury has a factory here, and this is also the home of Speight’s brewery. Beer and chocolate, what else could you ask for? (ok, maybe they don’t’ go well together… but individually, mmmmm)
Cool waterfalls outside Dunedin.
Sheep often times just show up in the middle of the road. These were just wandering aimlessly around. They looked a bit lost, and quite frightened because they were no longer ‘safe’ in side their fences.
The color of the water was amazing… blue on turquoise.
Jenn taking the Cadbury chocolate delivery truck for a spin. Ok, it wasn’t really moving… but the tour of the factory was awesome. We got loaded up on chocolate. Unfortunately, they weren’t making the Cadbury eggs here any longer… this particular factory no longer had the capacity to meet the demand. But, we still saw lots of cool chocolate bars we never get in the states. My favorite is the Moro Gold… I’ll have to keep a look out for it now!
San Francisco has nothing on this street. In fact, this is the “steepest street in the world.” So, of course, we had to drive up and down it. Believe it or not, our little rental car could barely make it up to the top. With it floored, we just barely got up there… and on the way down, wow, did it burn up the brakes. You could smell it coming from the car when we stopped at the bottom! Jenn took this picture of a house on the side of the street to give you and idea of the steepness…
After Dunedin, we went to a hostel in the small town of Seacliff. We were excited because they hostel had kayaks and spear fishing available for anyone who stayed there. I was stoked to finally go spear fishing and try it out. Unfortunately, we happened to be there in 40knot winds, and we couldn’t take any of the equipment out for a day. But, the scenery was beautiful. Instead of spear fishing, we went down to the beachfront and picked up 93 mussels for dinner. And yes, we ate every single one of them without the help of Rob.
This guesthouse was pretty cool though, it was called “The Asylum” and was an old prison. The owner is a car collector, and has over 50 old vehicles stored in barns on the property. It was a great opportunity to do some cool shots. These were some of my favorites… Jay Leno would love it here.
Southern most point, New Zealand
November 9, 2009
Our next day of driving took us to the most southern point of the south island of New Zealand. Along the way we stopped at a few beaches and took in some of the sites. We finally managed to spot one of the brown fur seals. Most of what we had been seeing so far were sea lions. For far too long these were hunted down for their skins, and became a protected species. Recently they are starting to come back in numbers, so things are looking up for them!
This lighthouse was unique in that the entire height of it was made from a single panel of wood.
One single black sheep in a crowd of white. He was cute though!
The wind blows so strong and continuously here that the trees do not grow branches or leaves on their front side. They all seem to lean back from the power of the wind.
Hmmm, which way do I go? This is the most south I’ve ever been… we are actually closer to the south pole than the equator. I would still love to go to Antarctica, but this is probably as close as I’ll get for a while.
Relaxing on the beach with giant waves… We found ourselves bundled up quite often… isn’t it supposed to be summer in the southern hemisphere? Still, most of the locals said the weather was unusually cold for this time of year.
Mary had a little lamb, her fleece was white as snow. Everywhere that Mary went, the lamb was sure to go.
Milford Sound, New Zealand
November 8, 2009
Our next dramatic, not to be missed destination: Milford Sound. The southern portion of the South Island is known as fjiordland for these massive bodies of water, protected by soaring rocky mountains. Milford Sound is the most famous of the lot, probably because of Miter Peak shown in the photo below. This particular sound was discovered by Captain Cook on one of journeys to New Zealand. Cook famously brewed a beer from pine trees cut from the shores to refresh and revive his crew upon landing in Milford Sound. Did you know beer prevents scurvy? Doesn’t sound yummy to me, but it the beer was good enough to make it into the history annuls.
We got a sweet deal on exploring the sound – an overnight ‘backpackers’ boat trip with lodging and meals included, all for the price of one of the typical day cruises. That’s our boat below, parked in the harbor in the afternoon light, just before we set sail.
Milford Sound is another one of New Zealand’s larger than life sort of destinations and there are probably ten or so big vessels on the harbor that take tourists around. We were excited to be on one of the few overnight boats because it would give us on opportunity for some (relative) solitude on the waters.
On our first night, we sailed alone the shores past at least a dozen waterfalls. It hadn’t rained that day, but they say when it has just recently rained, the entire mountainside becomes one massive waterfall, with the lines between each of the semi-permanent waterfalls blurring. It was cold and wet enough for us as it was though! Those winds would pick up and brrr – send us quickly shuttling inside for the free coffee and tea inside the cabin; then we’d go out and brave the stormy weather again.
This one is conveniently named “rainbow falls”… imagine that!
We were on the Real Journey’s ‘backpacker boat’. The have a second overnight boat where guests have private rooms at twice the cost. Both boats park in the same harbor at night, so we were fine with 1/2 the cost and four-person bunks. The harbor was absolutely beautiful. We took a skiff out just before sunset for a little tour. The second rarest penguin in the world, the Fjord land yellow crested penguin has a colony alongside where we harbored for the night. We saw a couple of them skittering across the rocks. They are pretty solitude and skittish though. I suppose I would be too if I was an endangered species. At night though, the penguins really come alive. We could hear them calling to each other through across the harbor.
The next morning was another cold one, but we bundled up and headed on deck for a tour of the open water just outside the sound. It was a brief tour though, and thank goodness! The water was really choppy, so choppy that I had leave the bow of the boat to escape the bucking swells. We saw more seals, more penguins, and many many more waterfalls.
This particular waterfall is 3xs taller than Niagara! Our ship got so close to the falls that the bow was actually touching the rocky outcropping of the cliffs. Water sloshed over the deck splashing everyone. Helen and Rob smile, just before the torrential downpour begins.
As luck would have it, Holland America’s Amsterdam was in the harbor that morning too. Lucas and I had seriously considered meeting the Amsterdam in Christchurch and sailing home on it via Fiji, Tonga and Hawaii. The price was attractive at $2,500 a pop – but we thought we’d have more fun exploring Fiji for three solid weeks, rather then spending the three weeks at sea. Lucas is still thirsty for a cruise though.
Haast to Wanaka, New Zealand
November 6, 2009
One of the most famous scenic drives in New Zealand stretches from the coast in Haast to the mountains in Wanaka. We’d based ourselves in Haast for the night so that we’d be right there and ready for the drive the next day. Haast is a self proclaimed ‘hick town’ and judging by the patrons at the only diner in town, the title is deserving. Lucas and Rob were all bristles and they looked around at the burly country men checking their women out. I don’t think that town had seen a leg not wearing wool socks and work boots in a good long time!
We had no complaints about the hotel rooms though, and thanks to Wotif.com slept really well at our first non-hostel in New Zealand.
This is typical Lucas – if he’s not taking a photograph, he’s generally fiddling with the GPS or one of our other techie gadgets.
Cairns are really big in New Zealand and at most of the stops along this particular stretch of highway, engineering tourists had done their best to stack up their own interesting cairn. This one we made here, wasn’t as tall as some but we were getting eaten alive by sand flies and had to jet. Sand flies are pretty much the only annoying thing about New Zealand. They are small, bite the dickens out of you, and are located pretty much throughout the country – even when there is no sand. They only bother you when you’re standing still, they say they are lazy, but it makes pausing for vistas a bloody affair.
About every fifteen kilometers or so along this stretch of highway there was a new waterfall or mountain scene to stop for. It made our 150 kilometer or so journey, stretch out until the whole day. This waterfall was fabulous, but ooh is that mountain runoff water freezing!
At another waterfall later, we decided to actually cross one of the streams. The water was fairly shallow and it looked like we’d only have to get wet to our ankles. It wasn’t until we reached that first spit of rocks there, that we realized the rest of the water was near thigh deep. Oh well, we’d gone that far! We hiked up our pants and trekked through the freeze to catch a close up glimpse of another set of falls.
The rocks here were really beautiful – not as beautiful as Helen’s engagement ring though. Look at it sparkle!
There were so many amazing view along this road that many of them don’t even have place to pull over and take it in. This was just another one of New Zealand’s crystal blue alpine lakes with a rocky mountain backdrop. Lucas took this photo out the car window as we were heading down the highway.
